I enjoy taking photos. However, I enjoy riding as well. When the waves are good, it's always a tough decision to choose which will fulfill my morning. This morning, it was both. Fortunately, the lack of lighting/hazy skies were working against my motivation to document the early morning nugs (when it was EPIC) which allowed for a guilty-free paddle. Around 9am, the sun started to break the haze so I decided to dry off and document. Today, I'm happy about being able to do both, it sure was fun.
This morning's views from land:
Unknown, hitting it:
Chase, getting the footage w/ his GoPro:
Colby and his story for the day. This happened on his first wave. A little tough to see, but that gash is deeper than it looks here. He was back in the water 10 mins later after the lifeguard cleared him for takeoff:
Drew, ARS:
Drew and Tim choppin it up:
One of the better local riders w/ 2 "X" chromosomes, coming off the bottom:
Unknown, half float:
Olaya, exiting:
Jamie Meistrell, hooking up w/ his buddy shooting from the water (not in frame) and getting the $$$ shot w/ some expression:
Travis, planning his setup w/ some speed:
Another one of Travis driving through a glassy one:
A big difference from yesterday as this morning brought what most of us had hoped for: consistent, clean and hollow nugs. Sets were easily head high+ and many were holding their shape nicely. Looking up and down the stretch, it was a common sight to see someone flying out of spitter. Hopefully, we'll see some leftovers tomorrow.Enjoy the rest of the weekend!
